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CHAPTER VIII.
THE RUINS. THE appearance of the burnt quarter, after the fire had spent itself and the work of destruction had ended, was of a vast city of ruins, the limit of which could at no point be seen, still smoking and steaming violently from the shock that had caused its fearful overthrow. Very little, if any thing, was left to show what had been. In the stead of noble buildings of granite and marble and brick were huge, giant walls, torn and ragged, and broken columns of stone and iron. The lines of the streets were entirely obliterated; and the ways were so blocked by great bowlders of granite, and heaps of débris, — in some places from three to ten feet deep, — that those who had been most familiar with the section before the fire were utterly unable to find their way, and groped about, or clambered over the obstructing rock, brick, iron, and still hot rubbish, dazed and bewildered. Pearl-street “leather-men” searched around the vicinity of the new post-office building for the sites of their stores and warehouses, and were startled by the sudden looming-up, right before them, of that splendid pile, out of the smoke and steam which enveloped and shrouded every thing like huge banks of fog. Sight-seers peering for the ruin of old Trinity Church on Summer Street were surprised by the unexpected appearance of some familiar object in the midst of strange and foreign sights, which proved to them that they were far away from Trinity, and working in a direction, which, if followed, would lead them still farther off. A man was seen wandering around what was once the lower part of Water Street with a sign announcing the new quarters of a bank, diligently searching, as one would search for a lost jewel in a dust-heap, for some mark of the site of its old building, which was not far from the corner of Congress Street; and men were constantly inquiring of each other what section of the sixty acres of the ruin they were in. BOSTON IN RUINS. The scenes within
the lines of the ruins were novel and picturesque in the extreme. They were
bits of pictures only, considering the magnitude of the devastated territory.
For three days the smoke was so thick and blinding, that no extended view could
anywhere be had. There were life and energy and spirit at every hand. Here, in
the midst of huge heaps of hot bricks, surrounded by fires yet smouldering and
crackling, men were pushing the work of clearing away the wrecks, which had
begun at the very break of dawn on Monday, or of digging out the buried safes
and vaults, and crowded about them, picturesquely grouped, were many interested
spectators. Here firemen were directing powerful streams of water upon yet
powerful fires burning and roaring fiercely; and engines were puffing in their
nervous, jerky way. Here, comfortably fixed upon mounds of rubbish, with a huge
granite block for their table, and smaller blocks for their chairs, was a knot
of out-of-towners, who had somehow succeeded in passing the guards surrounding
the entire district, lunching on rural viands, — lunching, in the midst of
awful wreck and ruin, as merrily and cheerily as in a quiet, peaceful, country
picnicking-place. Here urchins who had stormed the lines were peddling
“relics,” bits of crockery, pieces of fantastically-twisted iron, blackened
hard-boiled eggs, which they energetically protested had stiffened in the fiery
furnace, — queer formations displaying brilliant hues and exquisite tints,
strips of charred leather, and numerous other oddly-shaped pieces of rubbish.
Here guardsmen were seen through the smoke, pacing up and down their posts, or,
forgetful of their duty, picking out “relics” with their bayonet-points; and
cavalry-men riding and clambering solemnly and grimly over the heaps of broken
and smoking stuff. One standing in the midst of the ruins, and looking about
him, noting the blue-clad sentinels, the towering walls rent and torn in every
direction, the broken pillars and iron-work, the huge heaps of jagged
granite-blocks and débris under his feet, could easily imagine himself gazing
upon a great city destroyed but a brief time before by a terrific bombardment.
One wall on Milk Street, by the new post-office building, looked just as if a
shell had plunged through it, and made dreadful havoc with what had been
beyond. A long, narrow clearing, terminated by a fantastically ragged tower of
masonry, looked not unlike the path of a shell; and the sure finger-marks of
powder, rather than fire, seemed to be clear and unmistakable at every hand. At night the moon
shone; and the ruins were lighted up by its mellow light, and the ruddy glow
from the still burning fires, with a strange and singular brightness. A walk
through the quarter at this time revealed a scene of desolation, which by
daylight, when men were toiling busily, and things were moving over and about
the place, lending life to the picture, was absent. There was a weird,
grotesque beauty in the prospect, that was strangely fascinating. The fantastic
proportions of the fragments of walls were sharply marked. The tower of
Trinity, the most “artistic” of all the effects in the burnt quarter, stood out
grand and beautiful, forming with its surroundings a picture resembling those
of the noble ruins of ancient cities; and the upright fronts of buildings, with
their windows bright by the firelight, looked like lighted castles in the midst
of devastation: “The mysterious, intense, Rembrandt effects of fitful light and
shade,” wrote a journalist in one of the newspapers of the following morning;
“the moonlight occasionally penetrating through rifts of smoke, blending with
the flickering firelight; the exaggerated shapes of lonely columns and irregular
masses of wall; the silence, broken only by the occasional hoarsely-given order
of a fireman, or, mayhap, the distant chatter of a party of women whom some one
is escorting through the wonderful scene, — all combine to produce an
impression, of which nothing we can liken it to will convey an adequate
conception. The imagination may conjure up such a scene; genius, perhaps, might
partially represent it on canvas: no words we can command can describe it.
Shadowy, lurid, silent, grand, awful, desolate, fantastic, it possesses the
imagination; and the adventurer wonders whether he is still in the body, a
creature of senses and instincts, or a being as unsubstantial and strange and
dreary as the phantasmagoria by which he is surrounded. If it were not for the
occasional group of firemen directing a stream of water on some flame that the
wind is fanning to some comparative violence of passion, and the half-dozen
explorers like- himself whom he meets, and who stare at him in a wondering way,
as if his appearance in such a place, and not theirs, was the questionable
thing, one might well suppose he had’ left the abodes of men, and fallen upon
the chaotic surface of another planet, whose fires had been but incompletely
quenched.” The aspect of the
ruins changed from day to day. During Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday, a
thousand or more laborers were engaged in the work of clearing the rubbish from
the streets, and marking the thoroughfares; others were toiling industriously
for the recovery of safes and valuables; and large gangs of others were tearing
down the dangerous pieces of masonry standing, — some working, under the
direction of the chief of the department of inspection of buildings, with
pulleys and ropes and irons; and others, under the military authorities, with
dualin, — a much more dangerous and noisy tool. By the end of the week all the
streets were cleared, so that teams could with a little difficulty pass each
other with Safety; the ways along the outer edge of the district were open to
public travel; nearly every thing of value had been removed from the rubbish;
and the work of building temporary structures had fairly begun. Yet the fires
were not out. Smoke and steam continued to come up in dense volumes out of the
cellars; burning leather, and great heaps of coal, yet crackled and roared
furiously; and the ruins of vast proportions were yet picturesque and
fascinating, and so they remained for some time. The guards during these days
were exceedingly strict, acting under orders from headquarters, issued at the
request of the city authorities; but many idlers got somehow by them, and
constantly perambulated the quarter, loading their pockets and persons with
rubbish which they collected as “relics,” joining interestedly the groups about
the workmen engaged in opening the safes as they were recovered from the ruins
in the heaped-up basements, and joining in the expressions of sympathy when it
was found — which, alas! was too often the case — that the great iron boxes
contained, instead of money and wealth, only ashes and poverty. Photographers also
passed the lines, and perched themselves on stone-heaps in the most picturesque
quarters, taking views, and making of themselves pictures which sauntering
artists outlined in their notebooks; and many of the class of mysterious
vandals who go about o’ nights, and are seldom seen disfiguring the landscape
of the country, overcame the barriers, and painted and posted on the dead
walls, the sides of granite columns, and the flat surface of upturned
stone-blocks, advertisements of all manner of notions and nostrums. When the
rubbish was cleared from the streets, it was seen that the cobble-stones with
which some of them were paved were badly cracked and crumbled; that the
cross-walks were broken, in some instances, into many pieces; and the
curb-stones were chipped and worn as by a dull chisel, or the ill-directed
blows of a blunt hammer. All this was caused by the intense heat. But more
interesting than these marks of the fire’s power were portions of the Milk and
Water Street fronts of the new post-office building. The granite columns way up
near the top of the structure appeared like partly-melted candles, and the
granite cross-pieces were chipped fantastically. At the time of the
fire, the face of the granite was peeled off “like a chestnut in a toaster;”
and great granite-chips tumbled to the ground as if an invisible hand with
mallet and steel was at work, bent on defacing the smooth surface and sharp
lines with all the haste possible. The militia-men
were on guard around and about the burnt quarter for two weeks, day and night.
On the Monday morning after the fire they formed a stern, unbroken line from
Avon Place, along Washington Street to Water; through Water to Devonshire;
along Devonshire, through Congress Square, to Congress Street; through Congress
to State; along State to Kilby; through Kilby to Water and Broad; along the
Fort-hill territory and the water-front; up along behind Summer Street,
Bedford, Kingston, and around again to Avon Place; enclosing a territory of
more than a hundred acres. Pressing against this line was a crowd of sightseers
all through that day and during the next, peering curiously into the smoke and
dust, pleading for a passage through, or begging for some “relic.” A multitude journeyed
to the city, from all directions and from great distances, on the first days
following the fire; and, by their conduct, gave Boston a strange, unnatural
look; made it present spectacles more like what one might look for in a French
city than a puritanical American place. On Monday “there were pictures of awful
desolation and ruin in one great section; and immediately about and around, in
marked contrast, pictures of a holiday or gala-day kind.” Beyond the military
lines, but in the streets near by, on the piers on one side, and along the
paths of the Common on the, other, “strangers thronged unceasingly from morning
till night, looking contented, interested, and happy, watching the cavalry as
they cantered by, examining the wares of the itinerant peddlers on the Tremont
mall, studying the smoky sky through the big telescope, or trying the
lung-testers; carrying themselves, for all the world, as if it were a festival
they had journeyed hither to see, rather than the destruction of a great
section of a great city by fire.” The militia-men were quartered in various
sections of the city; one regiment occupying the shattered Old South Church. On
Tuesday evening we followed the officer of the night on the “grand rounds,” and
looked into the venerable meeting-house of sacred memories upon the strange
sight its interior presented. Here was a scene recalling that which a visitor
to the old church in the days long passed might have seen, when his Majesty’s
troops scandalized the patriotic citizens of Boston by quartering in the sacred
place. Men in blue were moving about, musket in hand, or sleeping in the wide,
old-fashioned pews. A group were lounging about the old pulpit, chatting and
chaffing; and other knots, engaged apparently in the same comfortable and harmless
occupation, were gathered here and there. The light was dim and dismal, coming
from tallow-candles stuck into the gas-brackets, and held up from
bayonet-points; and the air was sharp and chilling, the shattered windows
admitting every breeze. A week after the
terrible devastation, there were little puffs of smoke still visible; but the
great piles of broken granite and the shattered walls were silent and grand,
reminding one of Pompeii and the crumbling temples of Baalbec and Petræa. |