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PLANTS
FOR SPECIAL SITUATIONS
“All
is fine that is fit.”
— Old Proverb.
ONE of the most
essential points in successful gardening is that the plants employed should be
well suited to the soil and situation, for however well the garden is
conceived and carried out we get but a sorry effect unless there is a
wholesome luxuriance of growth and an appearance of permanence and peace.
Besides, it is cruel to require a plant to struggle for existence in an
environment totally unsuited to it when there are others which will do the
work far better because they are at peace with the surroundings. One has but
to observe nature to realize that for every situation, however unlikely or
uncompromising, there is some green thing which will find in it a congenial
home and will gratefully clothe its barren surface with bloom and verdure.
Constantly in garden making we are confronted with conditions under which most
of the well-known hardy herbaceous perennials and gay annuals may not thrive,
and it often requires much expense and experiment before the right plants are
found. The following notes have been made over a period of many years from
nature, from many gardens visited, and from constant experimenting in my own,
and while they do not pretend to be exhaustive by any means, may be of some
assistance to those whose horticultural enigmas are similar to my own.
The problems chosen
are those which seem to me most often met with.
THE
PROBLEM OF SHADE
Many times I have
heard people say: “We cannot have a garden; our place is too shady.” Now
this is not at all true, for, while to many of us the word “garden”
signifies a sunny space, gay and sweet with Roses, Pinks, Poppies, Sunflowers,
and brilliant annuals, to which shade is a serious menace, one may still have
a garden of great beauty, charm, and fragrance beneath the spreading boughs of
trees.
One point the owner
of the shaded gardens must keep in mind — that the roots of trees rob the
soil of both food and drink, and so nourishment in extra quantity must be
given the plants, and water also, for a shaded situation does not by any means
imply a damp one.
I know of no annuals
that do really well in shade, and there are not so many highly coloured
flowers, but one will have instead a softly charming harmony. All the
lavender, purple, and blue tones assume an especial quality of tender
loveliness in shadowy places, and white is much purer than in full sunshine.
By a shaded garden
we of course do not mean one which is so densely shadowed as never to be
reached by the sun. Few plants would thrive under such conditions. Beds of
ferns make a delightful setting for the many spring bulbs possible in the
shaded garden. Plants marked * will stand only light shade.
Asters
(hardy)
Aconitum, in var.
Monkshood
Anemone japonica
Japanese
Anemone
“
sylvestris
Wood
"
* “
Pulsatilla
Pasque Flower
" nemorosa
Snowdrop Anemone
"
Hepatica
Liver Leaf
Asperula odorata
Sweet
Woodruff
“
hexaphylla
Arenaria balearica
Mountain
Sandwort
Aquilegia, in var.
Columbine
Campanula, in var.
Bellflower
Cimicifuga, in var.
Snakeroot
Corydalis lutea
Fumatory
"
nobilis
Noble Fumatory
Chionodoxa
Glory of the Snow
Dicentra spectabilis
Bleeding
Heart
" eximia
Dicentra Cucullaria
Dutchman’s
Breeches
Digitalis purpurea
Foxglove
" grandiflora Yellow Glove
Doronicum, in var.
Leopard’s-bane
Daffodils, in var.
Funkias “ “
Day Lily
Fern
Fritilaria “ “
Fritilary
Galanthus ” “
Snowdrop
*Geranium Ibericum
Geranium san guineum
Wild
Geranium
Helleborus
niger
Christmas
Rose
Iris
foetidissima
Foetid
Iris
Iberis
sempervirens
Candytuft
Lily-of-the-Valley
Lilies, in var. except candidum and marsh-dwellers
Lythrum Salicaria
Loosestrife
Linaria Cymbalaria
Kennelworth
Ivy
Lunaria biennis
Honesty
Meconopsis cambrica
Welsh
Poppy (protect)
Myosotis, in var.
Forget-me-not
Mitella diphylla
Mitrewort
Narcissus, in var.
Primroses, in var.
Pansies, in var.
Polemonium, in var.
Jacob’s Ladder
*Paeonies, in var.
*Papaver orientale
Oriental Poppy
* “ nudicaule
Iceland
Polygonatum bifiorum
Solomon’s
Seal
Pulmonaria, in var.
Lungwort
Phlox divaricata
Canadian
Phlox
* “ tall growing
*Rudbeckia speciosa
Coneflower
Ruta graveolens
Rue
Spiraeas, in var.
Scillas, “ “ Squills
Sanguinaria canadensis
Bloodroot
Senecio, in var.
Groundsel
Saxifrage umbrosa
London
Pride (protect)
Trilliums, in var.
Wakerobin
Thalictrums, in var.
Meadow Rue
Tiarella cordifolia
Foam
Flower
Tradescantia virginica
Spiderwort
Vincas, in var.
Perriwinkle
Violets and Violas, in var.
Winter Aconites
WHERE GRASS WILL NOT GROW BENEATH TREES
Oak,
Ash, Birch, and Horse-chestnut trees, the roots of which go deep into the
earth, are less a tax upon the upper soil than such as Maples, Elms, Beeches,
and Sycamores, whose roots prowl along the surface. The ground beneath Pines
is particularly hard to clothe, but it is said that the indomitable little
Periwinkle can find a living even here.
For carpeting the
ground when grass has given up the attempt to spread its green carpet, we
should be grateful to the following plants:
Vinca
minor
Periwinkle
Hypericum calycinum
St.
John’swort
Pachysandra terminalis
Allegheny
Mountain Spurge
Ajuga reptans
Bugleweed
Lysimachia Nummularia
Moneywort
Lamium maculatum
Dead
Nettle
Hedera Helix
Ivy
Aegopodium Podagraria
Goutweed
Scillas, in var.
Squills
Many of these small
subjects have variegated varieties (especially the Goutweed) which are very
useful in lighting up shadowy corners. It must be borne in mind that plants
set out in such an uncompromising situation must be well looked after and
watered until well established.
SHRUBS AND VINES FOR SHADED GARDENS
Actinidia
polygama
Barberries, in var.
Akebia quinata
Symphoricarpus racemosus
Virginia Creeper
Rhus cotinus
Honeysuckles, in var.
Euonymus Japonicus
Clematis large flowered (partial Forsythia shade)
Clematis virginiana
Philadelphus coronarius
Tecoma radicans
Daphne Mezereum
Euonymus radicans
Andromeda floribunda
Ivy — English
Box
Celastrus scandens
Rhododendrons, in var.
Cornus florida
Azaleas, in var.
Cersis canadensis
Amelanchier canadensis
Laburnum vulgare
Kalmia angustifolia
Ribes aureum and sanguineum
Hypericum Moserianum (protect)
Lonicera fragrantissima
Ligustrum Japonicum
Berberis aquifolium
PLANTING THE LOW DRY BANK
If such banks occur
in parts of the place where it is desired that great neatness prevail, they
are best sodded and kept in order with the rest of the lawn, but if in more
informal localities where grass grows upon them only in untidy whisps, a
charming feature may be made of such a bank by the employment of some of the
creeping plants, which will easily find a footing upon its sloping surface and
finally form a sort of turf.
They will, of
course, need care and water until thoroughly established, and the bank must be
kept free from weeds until the little plants have fairly covered the surface.
The plants may be
set out about a foot apart each way, and will soon cover the space between.
All the plants listed are easily raised from seed, so the large number
required may be acquired at little expense. Some of them also seed themselves
freely, those marked * are especially prolific. All are trailers save the Sea
Pink and the Maiden Pink, which latter, I think, might be termed a
semi-trailer.
Thymus
serpyllum, in var.
Wild Thyme
*Dianthus deltoides.
Maiden Pink
Armeria Maritima
Sea Pink or Thrift
Crucinella Stylosa
Crosswort
*Callirhoe involucrata
Poppy Mallow
Lotus corniculatus
Bird's-foot Trefoil
Armeria latifolia
Thrift
Ajuga reptens
Bugle weed
THE CLAY BANK
The clay bank
presents greater difficulty, as this soil by reason of its density shuts the
plants off from their proper share of air, besides, owing to the slope and the
frequently baked condition of the top soil, much of the surface water runs off
before the thirsty roots have an opportunity to enjoy it. It is easy to see
that many plants would fail under such trying conditions, but much may be done
by choosing only such plants as are able to meet the situation with
equanimity. If the slope is a long one trees and shrubs may be employed, and
of those perhaps Elms, Norway Maples, and Oaks are the best. The American
Thorns, Crataegus, may also be used and:
Robinia
hispida
Rose Acacia
Citysus scoparius
Scotch Broom
Common Privet
Euonymous atropurpurea
Wahoo
Sumachs, in var.
Pyrus aucuparia
Bird Cherry
Crataegus Crus-galli
Cockspur
Thorn
" mollis
Viburnum acerifolium
Maple-leaved
Viburnum
"
dentatum Arrow Wood
Rosa rugosa
Japanese Rose
Symphoricarpus racemosus Snowberry
Rosa canina
Dog Rose
" Wichuraina,
in var. Japanese Trailing Rose
Weigela
Honeysuckle, in var.
Tecoma radicans
Trumpet Vine
Clematis virginica
Traveller’s
Joy
"
vitalba Virgin’s Bowe
Artemisias, in var.
Achilleas “ “ Yarrow
Sea Hollies " "
Globe Thistles, in var.
Mullein
Verbascums, in var.
Aster Novae Angliae, in var.
Michaelmas Daisy
Polygonum cuspidatum Knotweed
“
compactum
Such a bank is best
planted in the fall and the plants kept well watered in dry weather. Young
plants are best employed, as these are more vigorous and establish themselves
more quickly, and broad, natural-looking groups of the kinds used are most
effective.
THE WILD GARDEN
Many
plants by reason of their sophisticated and finished appearance are unsuitable
for naturalizing in half wild and waste places. Hollyhocks, Paeonies, Phlox,
save the old purple, Deiphiniums, Chrysanthemums, Moonpenny Daisies, and
Veronicas seem particularly to belong to the tidy garden; and new or rare
plants should not be planted in such a situation. The most suitable are those
which are native to the neighbourhood, or which are so little fussy about soil
and situation and so hardy that they in a large measure reproduce themselves,
so that in time there will be really natural thickets and stretches planted
without our agency.
The following list
includes such plants as seem to me particularly appropriate for naturalizing:
HERBACEOUS
Achilleas,
in var.
Yarrow
Rudbeckias, in var.
Coneflower
Lupinus
Common blue and white
Hemerocallis, in var.
Yellow Day Lily
Doronicums, in var.
Leopard’s Bane
Campanula trachelium
Throatwort
" rapunculus
Rampion
“
lactiflora
Bellflower
" latifolia
"
Camassia esculenta Quamash
Phlox divaricata
Canadian
Phlox
“
subulata
Creeping Phlox (rocky places)
“
old purple
Canadian Creeping
Saponaria officinalia Bouncing
Bet
Hesperis matronatis
Sweet
Rocket
Helianthus, in var.
Sunflowers
Solidago “ “
Goldenrod
Aster
Hardy Asters, in var.
Verbascums, in var.
Mullein
Cimicifuga “ "
Snakeroot
Columbine " "
Echinops “ “
Globe thistles
Eryngiums “ “
Sea Holly
Lunaria biennis
Honesty
Tussilago fragrans
Coltsfoot
Boconia cordata
Plume
Poppy
Epilobium angustifolium
Willow
herb
Geraniums, in var.
Crane’s Bill
Liatris pycnostachya
Kansas
Gayfeather
Lythrum Salicaria
Purple
loosestrife
Hieracium, in var.
Hawkweed
Anemones “ “
Windflower
Digitalis purpurea
Foxglove
Primroses
Common
Roses — Wild, or others of Rampant growth.
Lilium tigrinum
Tiger Lily
“ Canadense
Nodding Lily
“ superbum
Turk’s Cap Lily
“ philadelphicum
Huckleberry Lily
Baptisia australis
False
Indigo
“
tinctoria
Yellow
Any plants native to neighbourhood
BULBS
Narcissus
incomparabilis,
in
var.
" Leedsii
" "
" poeticus
" "
Muscari — Grape Hyacinth, in var.
Crocus, in var.
Star of Bethlehem, in var.
Fritillaria Meleagris, Snakeshead
Fritillary var. alba.
Scillas, in var., Blue bells or Squills
Eythroniums, in var., Dog’s tooth Violet
ANNUALS
English
Field Poppy
Borage officinalis, Borage
Argemone Mexicana,
Mexican
Poppy
Corn Flowers
Toadflax
Sunflowers
Nicotiana
PLANTS
FOR DAMP SITUATIONS
Marsh
and water gardening is best carried out upon rather a broad scale — that is,
good stretches of one sort of plant, of course regulated by the size of
one’s available space. A large majority of marsh plants are rampant
“doers” and prosper at such a rate that they quickly crowd out their
lesser brethren unless steps are taken to protect them. And so if the space to
be planted is of no great size, these enthusiastic colonizers should be
omitted and choice made among the more conservative stay-at-homes. If,
however, one has a fairly broad marsh or extensive waterside at one’s
disposal one may use these larger subjects with fine effect, and with them the
moisture-loving trees and shrubs. Most of the marsh plants need little care
when once established, spreading or seeding generously, and for this I am
devoutly thankful, for I cannot love the marsh and its handsome tenantry as
dearly as the landlubbers among my plants. Whether it is that pottering about
among them is neither very practical nor agreeable, or whether it is an
instinctive aversion to all bog life, animal or vegetable, a dislike of wet
feet and oozy places and a mortal fear of snakes, I do not know, but verily am
I glad that the marsh folk are able to shift for themselves in a great degree.
It is necessary to
pay some attention to the marsh colour scheme, for many of its inhabitants are
highly coloured and many wear the beautiful but warring hue known to fame as
“rosy magenta.” Luckily, however, there are a fair number of fluffy white
flowers to intervene between these and the vibrant swamp Lilies and gay
scarlet Cardinal Flower, and only a little care is needed when planting is
done in this “broad natural manner.” We excuse Nature of much for which we
would condemn the gardener.
In laying out a path
along a stream side the planting should be largely done on the opposite bank,
as this gives us the opportunity of enjoying a better view.
In planting around a
formal pool in the flower garden the choice is best limited to plants of a
tidy and rather severe character, and for this purpose nothing is better than
the many water-loving Irises and the broadleaved Funkias, with perhaps a few
feathery Spiraeas interspersed.
PLANTS
FOR MARSH AND STREAM SIDE
Alnus
viridis
Green Alder
Azalea nudiflora
Pixter
Flower
Azalea viscosa
Swamp Honeysuckle
Benzoin benzoin
Spice Bush
Betula nigra
Black Birch
Cephalanthus occidentalis
Button
Bush
Clethra alnifolia
Sweet Pepper
Cornus Stolonifera
Red
Osier
" alba
White-fruited Dogwood
" paniculata
(candidissima)
Panicled Dogwood
" Amomum
Swamp Dogwood
Halesia tetraptera
Snowdrop
Tree
Hamamelis virginica
Witch
Hazel
Ilex verticillata
Black Alder
Itea virginica
Virginia Willow
Nyssa sylvatica
Sour Gum
Populus
Poplar
Quercus bicolor
Swamp White Oak
Rosa nitida
Northeastern Rose
“
carolina Swamp Rose
Salix alba
White Willow
“
discolor Pussy
"
Vitellini Yellow
Spiraea salicifolia
Meadow
Sweet
" tomentosa Steeple Bush
PLANTS
FOR DAMP SITUATIONS
Acorus
Calamus
Lobelia syphilitica
Althaea officinalis
Lysimachia vulgaris
Arundo donax
Lythrum Salicaria
Astilbe, in var.
Mertensia virginica
Caltha palustris
Mitchella repens (creeping)
Dodecatheon media
Monarda didyma
Epilobiums, in var.
Myosotis palustris
Eupatorium purpureum
Narcissus
John Bain
Ferns, in var.
“ Sir Watkin
Fritillaria alba
“
P. R. Barr
Funkias, in var.
“ Beauty
Goodyera repens
“
Stella Superba
Hemerocallis, in var.
“ Emperor
Heracleum
giganteum
Narcissus
poeticus
Iris siberica, in
var.
“ albus plenus odorata
" aurea
Parnassia palustris
“ monspur
Peltandra virginica
“
versicolor
Physostegia virginica
" Kaempferi
Pontederia cordata
" pseudacorus
Ranunculus, in var.
“ Monnieri
Sagittaria variabilis
“
Delayayi
“
“
fl.
pl.
“
ochroleuca (syn. orientalis
gigantea)
Lilium pardilinum
Senecio,
in var.
" superbum
Spiraeas, in
var.
“
canadense
Spigelia marylandica
Lobelia cardinalis
Trollius,
in var.
Typha latifolia
WALL GARDENING
Wall gardening has
become one of the arts and it is not possible to enter into so large a subject
in so small a space, but for those who have already a dry retaining wall or
two in their gardens the few plants here given, which are so easily
established and grow so readily in such a position, may be of use. If the wall
is an old one there will probably be soil enough in the crevices to content
those plants, but if fairly new, soil must be rammed firmly back into the
crack which we intend to plant. If one has a wall to build and wishes to make
of it a really successful wall garden, it is advisable to procure one of the
many fascinating books which cover the subject. Of those Miss Jekyll’s
“Wall and Water Gardens,” and H. H. Thomas’ “Rock Gardening for
Amateurs” will be found most helpful.
Seed may be rammed
into the soil between the stones, or very small seedlings, or tiny bits of
plants with a good root. Large plants are not advisable, as they seldom
“take hold” in those narrow quarters.
PLANTS
FOR DRY RETAINING WALLS
Nepeta
Mussini
Santolina incana
Corydalis lutea
Campanula carpatica
Lavender, Munstead Dwarf
Cerastium tomentosum
Sedum, in var.
Helianthemum, in var.
Sempervivum, in var.
Thymus vulgaris
Aubrietia, in var.
Satureia montana
Alyssum saxatile
Phlox subulata, in
var.
Arabis alpina
Achillea, tomentosa
Dianthus, in var.
Centranthus rubra
Linum perenne
Antirrhinum
(snapdragon)
Iberis sempervirens
Veronica repens
Tunica Saxifraga
“
prostrata
Gypsophila repens
PAVED WALKS
There
is much to be said in favour of paved walks and terraces. In small, enclosed
formal gardens flagstone walks give a very quaint, old-world air, and they are
a charming adjunct to houses of the Pennsylvania Colonial type, or to more
pretentious dwellings built after the Elizabethan style. They are permanent
and easy to maintain, always dry, and admit of a very interesting type of
gardening. The stones, which, of course, must be flat, may be irregular or
regular as to shape, and if irregular as to shape may be of various sizes, but
small stones, of course, are not suitable. The soil beneath the stones should
be a good sandy loam to the depth of several inches, and the cracks between
the stones will serve as a lodging place for many a charming creeping or
tufted thing.
One must, however,
use restraint in this sort of gardening and keep in mind the fact that the
path is first of all designed for the pedestrian, and one does not wish to
have one’s feelings harrowed at every step by crushing some helpless green
thing beneath one’s heel. We do not mind picking our way a bit, though, and
if this diminutive tenantry is kept a bit to one side they are in no great
danger. Some of the small plants seem quite indifferent to being trod upon.
Thyme is one of these and sends up clouds of welcoming perfume behind our
lagging footsteps. Only the most diminutive subjects are suitable for the
centre of the path, but along the sides, if the path be wide enough, some of
the larger alpines may have a place. In planting, seedlings or very small bits
of plants should be used, or seeds may be inserted between the cracks. A
narrow wooden plant label is a useful tool in setting out the tiny plants, for
any real tool known to me is far too large.
One must have the
eye of a lynx for weeds in the paved path and slaughter them in infancy, for
once well rooted beneath the stones it is a terrible task to get them out.
Except for this the path will require little attention, for once settled the
small plants have at their disposal the moisture beneath the stones, good
food, and a cool root-run, which insures them peace and comfort. Many of them
will self-sow, and perhaps after a while the path will become overcrowded, but
they will make prettier groups of themselves than we can possibly devise, and
thinning them out occasionally is not a very difficult matter.
SMALL
PLANTS FOR CENTRE JOINTS
Acaena
microphylla
Draba aizoides
Erinus
alpinus
Thymus lanuginosus
Arenaria balearica (shade)
“
Serpyllum, in var.
Antennaria
tomentosa
Linaria hepaticoefolia
Campanula pusilla
“
Cymbalaria
Mentha
Requieni
ALPINES FOR OUTER EDGES OF PATH
Dianthus
caesius
Tunica saxifraga
"
deltoides
Arabis alpina fl.
pl.
“
arenarius
Arenaria montana
Aubrietia, in var.
Gypsophila repens
Armeria maritima
Hypericum repens
Veronica repens
Phlox subulata G.
F. Wilson
Papaver alpinum
“
“ Nelsoni
Silene alpestris
Campanula carpatica
Schafta
“
rotundifolia
Linaria alpina
ANNUALS
Sedum
coeruleum
lonopsidium acaule
Gypsophila muralis
GRAY-LEAVED PLANTS
The
charm and usefulness of plants with gray, hoary, or gray-blue foliage is being
more and more realized and appreciated. They make possible many a soft and
satisfying harmony, and have the advantage of remaining in good condition the
season through. In the late autumn, when most of our flowers have been driven
away by sharp frosts, the gray-foliaged plants assume a new interest and keep
the garden looking “dressed” until winter has fairly closed down upon us.
PLANTS
OF GRAY OR HOARY FOLIAGE
Antennaria
tomentosa
Artemisia Stelleriana
“
abro anum
argentea
Cerastium tomentosum
Pinks in variety
Funkia Sieboldiana and
Fortunei
Nepeta Mussini
Elymus glaucus (syn.
arenarius)
Centaurea candidissima, Annual
“
gymnocarpa,
“
Cineraria maritima,
"
(Creeping Dusty Miller)
Ruta graveolens
Santolina incana
“
chamoecyparissus
Lavender — tall and dwarf
Thymus lanuginosus, in
var., Creeping
Alyssum saxatile var.
compactum
Veronica incana
Eryngium
maritimum
Salvia officinalis
Sedum Sieboldii Ewersii and
spectabile
Achilea tomentosa
Festuca glauca
Thalictrum glaucum
Stachys
lanata
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