CONTENTS

A VICEROY'S WELCOME.

The Vestibule of India — An Epitome of Incongruity

CHAPTER II
BOMBAY.
A City of Contrasts — From West to East — First Glimpse of the Native —
The Parsis — A Beautiful Queen

CHAPTER III
LORD, HAVE MERCY ON US!
Nobody Cares — A Tenement House — A Segregation Camp —
The Outlook

CHAPTER IV
THE MOST SPORTING COUNTRY IN THE WORLD.
H. H. the Maharajah — The State of Marwar — The Saving Horse

CHAPTER V
A RAJPUT CITY.
Gentleman — "Like Me" — Pure East — The Palace on the Rock

CHAPTER VI
THE CAMP OF EXERCISE.
The Problem of the Defile — Patrols at Work — The Sham Fight —
The British Army in Earnest — Points for Study — The Native Officer —
Difficulties of the Question

CHAPTER VII
DELHI.
The Kutb Minar — The Jumma Musjid — The Palace — Incongruous India

CHAPTER VIII
CALCUTTA.
"The Gentlemen at Fort William" — The Maidan — The Anglo-Indian: New Style — On the Hughli — The Bengali: His Legs

CHAPTER IX
ON NATIVE SELF-GOVERNMENT.
A Discreditable Record — The Calcutta Municipal Bill —
"The Rights Of the People" — Government's Blunder —
The Bated Chairman — Expenditure and Revenue —
The Uneducated B.A.

CHAPTER X
THE HIGHER EDUCATION.
The Complete Babu — Cram — Superfluous B.A.'s —
From "The National Magazine" — The Practical Use of Learning

CHAPTER XI
THE MAHARAJAH BAHADUR.
The Permanent Settlement — The Ganges and Behar — His Retinue —
His Rich Relations — What do We Know?

CHAPTER XII
DARJILING.
The D. H. R. — The World of Plants — The Himalayas

CHAPTER XIII
THE VILLAGERS.
Hungry and Helpless — The Bunnia — A Sugar-Mill — The Complaints —
The Indian Evening

CHAPTER XIV
THE CITY OF SHAH JEHAN.
The Pearl Mosque — The Arabian Nights Alive — The Uncrowned Prisoner — Every Point Perfection — The Fit Close

CHAPTER XV
THE RULERS OF INDIA.
Parliament and India — The Legislative Council —
The Meaning of Competitive Examinations

CHAPTER XVI
THE DISTRICT OFFICER.
The Sad Case of Mukkan Singh — Points for Decision — Further Points —
The Travelling Court House — Omnipotent at Thirty

CHAPTER XVII
JUSTICE.
The Witnesses — A Conflict of Evidence — The Art of Perjury —
Chutni and Meat

CHAPTER XVIII
PROVIDENCE AND THE PARLOUR GAME.
Records — The Village Accountant Reports — The Absent Presence

CHAPTER XIX
THE FOREST OFFICER.
The Elephant — A Solitary Exile — The Plan and the Work — The Ranger

CHAPTER XX
THE CANAL.
The Engineer — A Triumph of Engineering — Public Works That Pay — Glug-Glug

CHAPTER XXI
THE SHRINE OF THE SIKHS.
Short Rule, Long Battles — Respectable India — A Miracle —
Jewels and Dirt

CHAPTER XXII
ON THE BORDER.
Peshawar City — Waxcloth — The Last of His Family —
The Dutiful Son

CHAPTER XXIII
THE KHYBER.
The Meeting Caravans — The Footprints of War —
The Excitements of Sentry-Go — The Frontier Feeling

CHAPTER XXIV
THE MALAKAND.
The Home of the Guides — A Box of Soldiers on a Rockery —
Fort Chakdara — The Sons of Joseph

CHAPTER XXV
THE FRONTIER QUESTION.
Bravery or Despair — The Afridis — Russia — Britain's Choice

CHAPTER XXVI
OF RAJAHS.
A Living Ghost — A Staggering Compliment — The Resident Administrator — The Sporting Rajah

CHAPTER XXVII
THE COMPLETE GLOBE TROTTER.
The Decline of the Hotel — The Indian Train — A Workmanlike Service —
The Blessings of Friendship

CHAPTER XXVIII
THE HAPPY HOMES OF INDIA.
The Compound — Twenty-eight Servants Apiece — The Honour of the Servant — A Double Exile

CHAPTER XXIX
THE CASE OF REBELLIOUS POONA.
The Empire of the Marathas — The Malcontent — A Religion Which is a Life — How the Native Dies

CHAPTER XXX
THE JAIL.
The Religion of Theft — Arcadia — At Jubilee Time — Opium on the Brain

CHAPTER XXXI
HYDERABAD, DEKHAN.
A Wealthy Territory — Its Threshold — Golconda — A Wedding

CHAPTER XXXII
MADRAS.
A Spacious City — The East Coast Railway — The Southern Brahman —
The Red-Rock of India

CHAPTER XXXIII
THE SALT-PANS.
Hard Work and Loneliness — A Brine-Watered Farm —
An Honest Administration — Guarding the Guardians

CHAPTER XXXIV
THE GREAT PAGODAS.
Tanjore — The Sublime and the Ridiculous — Madura

CHAPTER XXXV
THE RUPEE.
Foreign Trade and Foreign Debt — The Fall in Silver — Salaries in India —
The Export Trade — The Closing of the Mints — The Committee's Plan

CHAPTER XXXVI
THE ARMY AND MUTINY.
The New Conditions — Split Regiments — Trust the Native! — Imperial Service Troops

CHAPTER XXXVII
THE IMPERIAL BABU.
The Decline of British Influence — Absence and Red-Tape —
The "Europe-Returned"

CHAPTER XXXVIII
THE LAND OF IRONIES.
British Unselfishness — The Farce or Justice — The Curse of Peace —
The Barrier of Race