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CHAPTER XI.
Katahdin ho! — The Shadow of a Tragedy. — A Ghastly Omen. — Mr. Bowditch’s Spotted Path. — Up the “Great Slide.” — Grand Scenery. — A Cowberry-Fire. — On to the Main Peak. — The Chimney. — Perennial Snow.
I WAKED quite early
the next morning, — before sunrise considerably. Cluey was up, however; so was
Raed. They were talking. Cluey was telling him that we should find the ascent
of Katahdin a very difficult task, a great under taking, and all that sort of
thing. In short, he thought it was too much for us, and was advising Raed to
give it up, — not to think of it. Of course such
advice was all thrown away on Raed. I heard him tell Cluey that he would be on
the summit in four days if he lived and the weather was pleasant. The old man
said no more. “Shall you take up
with our offer to go with us?” Raed asked. I expected he was
going to refuse. Consider ably to my surprise, he said, — “Wal, yer offer is
a good ‘un anough. I’ve gut mer hay all cut an’ stecked: an’ ef yer bound ter
go, — why, I’ll go with ye, pay or no pay; fer I ruther expect you’ll need me.”
“Good on your old
head!” exclaimed Raed. “You shall have your pay, not only for your time, but
for all your grub that we are eating up here.” He said this so
loud, that it waked Wash and Wade. Somehow Cluey
seemed much more of a man this morning than he had the previous evening, — a
circumstance which again recalled Raed’s suspicion concerning the “green
bottle.” Another circumstance struck me as rather confirmatory of the same
suspicion. The green bottle, as it stood on the table-shelf, seemed to be
wholly or nearly empty. It was hardly probable that Cluey had brought an empty
glass-bottle all the way from Mattawamkeag: he was no such a man. Cluey got
breakfast. Raed thought we had
best set out immediately. We paid Cluey five
dollars for what we had eaten and destroyed. He did not ask it; but Raed gave
it to him. We also purchased of him, from his supplies, thirty-five pounds of
corn-meal, — as nearly as we could guess at it, — three pounds of coffee, four
of sugar, and twenty of beef; all for five dollars. Raed also paid him for
fifteen days in advance, — in all, forty dollars; which he concealed, for safe
keeping during his absence, in an old stump a few rods from the shanty. His
reason for not leaving it in the shanty was, “Sumbuddy mout cum along ter stay
all night, an’ git the old thing afire.” We appreciated that. As we had two guns,
Cluey did not think it best to take his own; a very heavy rifle of the old
stamp. He merely took his knife, — a large, sharp jack-knife, serviceable as a
butcher-knife, a bowie-knife, or a dirk. We also engaged the services of his
veteran coffee-pot. By nine o’clock we were ready for a start; and, turning
the button on the shanty-door, filed off to ward the river-bank. Cluey carried
the meal in a bag he had furnished for it; Raed came next, with the meat in one
of the buckets; Wash next, with the coffee and sugar in the other bucket; after
him Wade, with the guns, hatchet, and blankets; and finally the narrator, closing the file, with the old
kettle, mosquito-bar, ammunition, coffee-pot, etc. Cluey had come up
the river in a small bateau he
owned, — a flat-bottomed skiff about fifteen feet by three and a half. In this
we embarked, and proceeded to pole across to the opposite bank. The current of the
West Branch is too swift to admit of the use of paddles in ascending the
stream. Boatmen use poles altogether in going up. In coming down, however, the
paddle is used to guide the canoe, as well as the wooden bateaux. Coming down is an easy job,
provided the steersman possesses sufficient skill to shoot the rapids in
safety. At the point where
we were crossing the channel was not more than twelve or fifteen rods wide.
Running the boat in upon the pebbles on the bank, we jumped out and unloaded
our cargo. “Will you leave the
bateau here?” asked Raed. “I don’t jest like ter du that,” said Cluey. “A gang o’ tham river-driver fellars may cum along an’ tuk it off with ‘um: we ken pull it up among that ar clump uv alders, though,” pointing to where these bushes fringed the bank a few rods below. So, getting in
again, we let the boat drop down opposite the bushes, then poled it in under
them. It was at a place where the current, or a part of it, from the main
channel, set in strongly to ward the shore, and gouged under the bank. The
water was deep up to the very roots of the alders. Tiny whirlpools were
forming; and a drift of yellow-white froth had lodged against the shore,
mingled with which were chunks of driftwood. The bank shook as we jumped out upon it, making the froth wave back. Cluey took hold of the nose of the bateau to draw it up: the rest of us stood ready to catch hold on each side as soon as he had drawn it out of the water. Suddenly Wade started back. “Good God!” he
exclaimed; “see there!” pointing to the foam which had parted a little from
the bank. It was a ghastly spectacle. Bobbing up with the wavelets was the face of a man!* — a corpse floating on its back! The foam clung round the pallid face, and wreathed the streaming hair; and, horrible! where the body had lain against the black earth of the bank, a host of slimy snails had fastened to the cheek and clothes. The drenched garments still held around the body, though rent and torn to tatters, which, streaming up, mingled with the froth and floating dirt. Cluey let go the canoe. We all stared, and grew sick at the sight. “Drowndid!”
exclaimed the old man solemnly, — “drowndid, an’ washed ashore!” “Pull up the boat,”
said Raed in a low voice. “Let’s pull the boat up; then we must try to get the
body out.” The bateau was drawn back among the bushes. Raed then took a
stick, and gently drew the corpse up to the bank. “Come, boys,” said
he; for we shrank back despite ourselves. “It’s our duty. We should any of us
wish the same thing done for us if we had been thus unfortunate; and we may
be.” With averted faces
we lifted the dripping corpse out upon the bank, and then, getting the board-seats
out of the boat, laid it across them, and carried it back through the alders to
a dry knoll. Wash brought water in an old tin bumper, which Cluey kept in the
bateau to bail it with; and we rinsed the foam and dirt from the face of the
dead. The body had evidently been lying in the water for some time. The skin
was worn off in many places. One boot was gone. The coat and pants were in
rags. Yet it seemed to have been a young man. The hair had quite recently been
“shingled,” and the beard shaven; all save the mustache, which was of a
light-brown color. On the left little finger was a small seal- ring. There were
no marks of violence, unless a bruise on the head could be thus construed.
Raed, at first, thought this looked as if there had been foul play; but Cluey
thought it might full as likely have been received in coming over the rapids
above from striking against the rocks. On the whole, this appeared most
probable, especially as, on examining the inner vest-pocket, we found a
pocket-book containing forty-seven dollars in greenbacks. The fragment of a
watch- guard hung from a button-hole of the vest. The watch itself had probably
dropped from the pocket, and broken away. In the coat were several bits of wet
paper: one, the envelope of a letter, had borne a direction and address; but
the water had dissolved it out save the post mark, — Portland, June 3. This
was all the clew there remained on the body to establish its identity. “This ere’s a very
sad affa’r,” muttered Cluey. “Poor yonker! Went up by way o’ Moosehead
proberly. Undertuk ter cum down the West Branch ‘ere in er cunno. Gut oversot
an’ drowndid.” “The question now
arises,” said Raed, “what ought we to do?” “At home,” replied
Wash, “the way would be to notify the authorities, so as to have a coroner’s
inquest.” “Yes; but, in order
to notify the authorities here, we should have to go forty or fifty miles,”
said Raed. “Ought we to do it?” “No,” said Wade. “No,” said Wash. “It wud luke like
axin a leettle tu much,” remarked Cluey, “we bein’ mere strairngers tu ‘im.” “But think of the
anxiety of his friends!” said Raed. “How do you know he
had any?” asked Wade. “Besides, we can’t be expected to assume such
responsibilities.” “Well, we can at
least bury him,” said Raed. “It would be unchristian not to do that,” said
Wash. “Must barry ‘im uv
coorse,” put in Cluey. “But where shall we
bury him?” I asked. “We might take him over to your clearing, Mr. Robbins,”
said Raed. Cluey looked a
little disconcerted. “I don’t b’l’eve in
ghosts or any think o’ that sort,” he began: “still, ‘twouldn’t be jest cheery
ter hey a dead corpse barried thar, me livin’ alone so.” “Then why not bury
him here?” asked Wade. “One place is as good as another, I suppose.” We carried him
along the bank to a place where it was dry and sandy. Wash sharpened off the
two boards at the ends, and chamfered them down so as roughly to resemble
shovels. With these we dug a grave in the sand about three feet in depth. Raed
had cut off a quantity of hemlock-boughs from the low shrubs standing near.
With these we lined the grave. Cluey and Wade then laid in the body, and we all
stood round it with uncovered heads for a space of fully five minutes. Raed
then laid in more boughs, entirely covering the body with them. This done, Wash
and I filled in the sand, and Wade drove down the boards with the hatchet, —
one at the head, the other at the foot, of the rude grave. “Is not this a
rather ghastly omen for us, — just setting out into the same wilds, — to have
this corpse coming floating down to meet us?” said Wash, with a certain
seriousness in his tones. “I hope you are not
foolish enough to suppose this accident has any thing to do with our affairs,”
replied Raed. “What’s to be done
with this money?” asked Wade, pointing to the pocket-book with its little roll
of drenched bills, which had been laid down on the sand, together with the
ring. “It must be kept
for his friends,” replied Raed, “if they can be ascertained. We shall be
obliged to take them with us, I suppose, for the present.” “That might be
awkward in the event of much public suspicion relative to this affair,”
remarked Wade. “What do you mean?”
asked Raed. “Why, our having
this money and this ring in our possession,” replied Wade. “Persons have been
convicted of murder on no better evidence.” “That’s so!”
exclaimed Wash. Raed seemed a
little staggered. “Tell ye what,
yonkers,” said Cluey, “I’ve ben a-thinkin’ as ‘ow it mont be a good plan ter
put up a notiss on a pole ‘ere. Its orfen done. Parties of loggers is goin’ up
an’ down the river ‘ere ev’ry few weeks. Put up a notiss on a conspikerous
pole, statin’ jest ‘ow it war; also ‘ow much money war found on the buddy, an’
whar the frens uv the dizeased ken h’ar on’t.” “That’s the idea
exactly!” exclaimed Raed. “Cut a pole, Kit: I’ll write a statement.” I cut and trimmed a
long alder-pole, and made a cleft in the top end, in which Raed inserted the
following statement, written on a small sheet of paper from his diary: — AUGUST, 186
— . “The body of
an unknown man, apparently about twenty-five years old, was this day found in
the river at this place, and buried in the sand ten feet back of this pole, by
the following persons (here Raed gave all our names in full.) “There were
found on the body one small seal-ring, worn on the left little finger, and the
sum of forty-seven dollars in greenbacks, which may be applied for after the
first day of October next, at No. — , Tremont Street, Boston, Mass. “Will the finder of this slip please forward it, with particulars, to either the Bangor or Boston papers?” The pole was then
set up in the sand, and a strip from Raed’s handkerchief tied just below the
paper as an additional signal. (It may here be
added, that, up to November of the same year, no application had been made for
the ring or the money; though a party of lumber-men saw the notice, and carried
it down to Bangor, where it was published in several papers, and copied into
many others.) I have often
reflected concerning this mysterious incident since, and wondered whether we
did the right thing under the circumstances. It seems to me that it was all I
could have expected a similar party to have done by my own body, if found in
the same way; and then again, when I think of some fond mother or anxious
father watching and waiting for the return of the one who fills that shallow
grave in the wildwood sands, I fear we have not made sufficient effort to set
the fact of his death before the public. Raed has written to ask whether it
would not be advisable to spend the whole sum found on the body in
advertisements, which may possibly reach the eye of some relative of the
unfortunate young man, who may, at least, be able to claim the ring. It was afternoon
before we had finished these miserable rites and were ready to go on. Cluey
asked if we should have dinner before starting. But none of us could have eaten
there. We took up our luggage, and started off over the rising ground toward
Katahdin. The event had cast a damper on us. Despite Raed’s sarcastic remark, I
could not help thinking, with Wash, that it was “a rather ghastly omen.” Katahdin, looming
grandly to the north-east, invited us on. For about two miles from the West
Branch the land is open, having at some not long past time been burned over.
There were many grassy patches. Blueberry-bushes abound, and, at this season,
were loaded with their tempting fruit. There were also plenty of
choke-cherries, pear-plums, and wild red cherries. This open belt is succeeded
by a growth of young evergreens. Here, under Cluey’s pilotage, we were so
fortunate as to strike the path spotted by Mr. Bowditch on his tour to the
mountains a number of years ago. It was lucky that we did so: it facilitates
the course very much. Parties ascending the mountain will do well to look for
this path. A tramp of three
hours and a half from the river took us to the foot of the “Great Slide,” a
distance of about six miles. The “Great Slide,”
as it is called, is one of those bare faces of the mountain where all the trees
have been swept off by an avalanche of bowlders and earth from the top. The
angle of elevation is, we thought, not far from forty degrees. It can only be
climbed by a determined effort. The whole incline is strewn, from top to
bottom, with bowlders often a dozen feet square., It had, at first sight, a
very disheartening, perilous aspect, coming as near our ideal of “Jacob’s
ladder” as we ever expect to realize in this world. It was now towards
four o’clock. As we had not yet eaten dinner, and were in poor plight to
attempt the slide, Raed decided to camp here for the night. We accordingly
built our fire among the low firs which grew along the foot of the slide, just
at the point where the mass of loose rocks and broken wood marks the base of
the steep mountain-wall. Wade set the aneroid, and reported the height at
twenty-three hundred and seventy feet above the sea. We had forgotten to take
the elevation at the West Branch* on starting in the morning, as had been
intended. After finding the body, it had slipped our minds. The height of the foot of the slide, above the West Branch,
will therefore have to be left to some future and more careful explorers. Cluey set up a
lug-pole on two crotched stakes over the fire, and proceeded to boil meat, make
a pudding, and get up a “dish of coffee.” It was rather nice to sit resting
ourselves while this was going on. We were already up
high enough to look off over the forest below. The view, even from the foot of
the slide, is fine. Though six miles distant, the West Branch can be distinctly seen threading its silvery path through the woods down from the foot of Lake Chesuncook, the lower end of which could be discerned past the side of the ridge. During the evening we heard the cry of martens from the rocks above us, and for a long time sat watching the stars of the slowly-wheeling Dipper, four of which were visible over the dark brow of the slide: the other three were hidden behind it. Just as we were going to sleep, a hare gave us something of a fright. I think the little creature must have been pursued; for it came leaping up to our very feet, making a great stamping for so small an animal. We had lain down; but, hearing the tramping, jumped hastily up; at which the timid creature went leaping off. “Nothin’ but a fatty,” said Cluey. Ding-bat gave
chase; and, for several minutes, the rocks resounded to his best vocal efforts:
but he soon came back lolling. “Wal, ye didn’t
ketch ‘im, did ye?” cried Cluey derisively. “Haf ter buy a rater an’ latherin’
box, an’ shave a while, afore ye ken ketch Yankee animuls.” Wash complained of
bad dreams; but the rest of us slept well all night. One ought to sleep well in
this clear mountain-air. By seven o’clock we
had breakfast out of the way, and were ready for a start. “Now, thar air two
ways o’ gittin’ up on ter this ‘ere mountin,” explained Cluey. “One is ter
climb right straight up this slide ‘ere: t’other is ter foller along the
‘spotted line’ ter the foot of the wast spur, an’ then climb up thar whar
‘tain’t ser steep. Ye ken take yer chice uv um.” “Which is
farthest?” asked Wash. “Oh! it’s furderest
out round the spur. It’s ‘bout two mile too, or two an’ a harf, out ter the
foot of the spur. Then frum thar ter the top it’s nigh on ter five mile. But,
ter go right straight up this ‘ere slide, ‘tain’t more’n three an’ a half or
four mile ter the top.” “Do you think it is
safe going up the slide?” Raed asked. “Wal,” replied the
old man, “that’s all the argermunt thar is fer goin’ out round by the spur.
It’s pasky steep, ye see; an’ now an’ then a big rock comes tumblin’ down,
‘spashally in the spring o’ the year, when the frost is comin’ out. The stuns
is apt ter guv way under yer foot, lyin’ luse as they du. Haf ter be keerful
whar yer a-steppin’. Ye ken see jest ‘ow it looks, all raggid and luse like. Still
I ain’t afeerd ter resk it; an’ I shudn’t s’pose thar need ter be any great
dairnger fer active yonkers like you. I shudn’t advise ter try it in the
spring o’ the year, p’r’aps; but, ser late as ‘tis now. I don’t think thar’ll
be any diffikilty. Yer ken du as yer ‘a’ mind to, though.” “What do you hay,
fellows?” asked Raed, turning to us. We all thought best
to try the slide. “Up the slide it
is, then,” said Raed. “Forward, all!”
cried Wade. Cluey threw the
meal-bag over his shoulder, and, climbing up over the rick of stones and logs,
began the ascent. The rest of us followed, each with his portion of the
luggage. It did not take long to start the sweat. Climbing up an incline of
loose stones and broken shrubs as steep as a medium staircase with a heavy
bucket in one’s hand is very much like work. On went Cluey, never once looking
behind him. He had secured a start of thirty or forty yards; and kept it, de
spite our efforts to close up. These thirty or forty yards amounted to some
twenty or thirty feet dead height over our heads. He climbed very gingerly,
however; and was continually dropping down advice to us. “Now luk out fer
this ‘ere ticklish un;” indicating, with hand or foot, the rock he deemed
treacherous. And, a moment
later, — “Tuk keer o’ that
ar rotten log.” “Mind ‘ow ye step
inter this luse dirt: ‘twon’t ‘old yer foot.” “Steer cl’ar o’
this ‘ere hole ‘tween these ‘ere raggid stuns: bad place fer yer laigs in
thar.” And so on, upward,
for four or five hundred feet. We were all thoroughly out of breath when the
old man finally faced about on the upper side of a huge bowlder of red granite,
and removed his fur cap to wipe his brow. We toiled up beside him, and,
panting, turned to look down. The view from where we stood would be apt to make
a nervous person feel skittish. It had a right-up and-down seeming, that made
me grow giddy for a moment. Our footing on the steep side appeared altogether
too slight for safety against the clutch of gravitation: this, at least, was
the first impression given. “Gracious!”
exclaimed Wash, glancing apprehensively down, and then up. “This is rather
scarey, isn’t it? Makes a fellow feel as if he was going to topple over and
roll down.” “Not a very nice
place to roll, either,” remarked Wade, fixing his feet a little more firmly. “Might illustrate
it,” said Raed, going a little way along the side, and giving a loose stone a.
push with his foot. The fragment, which was about the size of one of the
buckets, rolled off, and then went tearing downward, throwing up jets of dust,
and setting other stones in motion, till it plunged among the evergreens at the
base of the slide. These four or five
hundred feet had greatly enlarged and heightened the prospect. Moosehead Lake,
thirty miles to the south-west, was already beginning to come into view over
the wooded hills. Chesuncook and little Ripogenus had come up much nearer. “Wal,” said Cluey
(he always prefixed all important remarks with this preliminary “Wal”), “wot
say fer anuther hitch-up?” “Go ahead!” replied
Wash. “I would suggest
that we climb a little more moderately,” said Raed. “You gave us some thing of
a sweat this first time.” “Did I, though?”
said Cluey very innocently, and as if such a thing had been farthest from his
intention. “Wal, slower then.” Cluey entertained
but a very slight opinion of city-bred muscle. It always gave him a sort of
mischievous delight to see Raed and Wash pant well in an attempt to keep up
with his sturdy trudge. During this next
“hitch” we got up four or five hundred feet higher, the view opening grandly.
As the hills and mountain-ridges to the southward and southwestward sank, the
ponds and streams in the valley rose to sight, from our second resting-place
Wade counted seventeen ponds and lakes. There was very little haze; and the sun
shone brightly. It was not uncomfortably warm, however: on the contrary, the
air seemed rather cool; a fact we attributed to the increasing elevation. Just
as we were starting for a third hitch, Wash had the ill luck to upset the sugar-bucket.
The paper containing the precious “white sand” fell out, and, striking on a
rock, burst. Before we could jump to the rescue, nearly half the contents ran
out, and sifted down among the stones. It is always aggravating to lose sugar.
One can view the spilling of salt, or even meal, with tolerable calmness; but
to see sugar spilled upsets all a fellow’s forbearance. We all jawed him. The slide is no
steeper toward the top than at the foot, if so steep. The climbing, too, is
less difficult. There are fewer loose stones and bowlders. The foothold is
less uncertain. We accomplished the last seven hundred feet with much less
fatigue and perspiration than we had feared at our first halt. Nor did we feel
as giddy on looking down from any of the upper stages as at the first downward
glance, when not more than five hundred feet from the base: so much depends on
getting used to a thing. But the incline
proved longer, considerably, than it had looked to be from the bottom. The line
of ledges at the top had receded as we climbed toward them. It was not till
half-past ten that Cluey gave the welcome assurance that “one hitch more’d
fetch it.” A pretty long hitch it turned out; but we made it, and, at five
minutes before eleven, sprang upon the brink of the slide, which here drops
down from a sort of table-land that from this place stretches off toward the
high peak of the Katahdin ridge. We threw ourselves on the mossy rocks, and lay
for a long time, resting. The view is
wonderfully grand. Of itself it is sufficient to reward all the hard toil of
the ascent. The whole country is at your feet. All the hills and mountains have
sunk into a mighty plain, stretching off into distant haze. It looks as if one
might fall into the West Branch by merely jumping over the crest. The valley
wears a soft bluish tint. The forest seems like a grass-plat. Moosehead has
come up much nearer. Far beyond it there are mountain-peaks, which, I presume,
are those of the boundary range between Maine and Canada. We sat for over an
hour — one of the most pleasurable of my life — drinking in the great scene;
and even then it seemed too bad of Raed to sing out, — “Well, fellows,
what say for dinner?” Though, come to
think of it, we were hungry as bears. “Where’s the wood
to come from?” inquired Wade, looking back over the table-land. This seemed likely
to be a pretty difficult question. On the elevated
plateau none but the hardiest plants were to be seen. The trailing alpine bear
berry here and there clothed the bare ledges, and mossy lichens filled the
hollows. Farther down, toward the crest of the west spur, there were small
patches of cowberry-shrubs. Cluey had told us that he knew of a spring at some
distance across the table-land. Unpacking one of the buckets, he now started off
to find it. Raed began to construct an arch of stones wherein to set the
kettle; while Wash and Wade and myself went off down the plateau to gather
cowberry-twigs. They were none of them larger than a pipe-stem. Rather small
fuel, certainly! We broke off and pulled up each an armful, and got back just
as Cluey, with about half a bucket of water, was coming in from the opposite
direction. “‘Twas all the
thing’d give,” said the old man.
“I squeezed it dry. But I’ve cl’ar’d it out. Gass it’ll guv some more by
night.” What there was of
the water was rather rily. It was tolerably cool, however. After considerable
“fussin’,” owing to the scantiness of the fuel, a pudding was made, and coffee
boiled. Not a very sumptuous repast: it needed only the relish of a good
appetite, though, — a relish we always had with us while on the Katahdin ridge.
After dinner, Wade
set the aneroid several times at different points along the plateau. The
height, as nearly as we could average it, was forty-seven hundred and thirty feet.
The known height of the mountain, as calculated by the State survey, is
fifty-three hundred and eighty-five feet. This would make our position at the
top of the slide six hundred and fifty-five feet below the main peak. I may as
well add here, however, that, on ascending the peak (which we did next day),
our aneroid persisted in giving the altitude at fifty-four hundred and ninety
feet, — about that. So that, making a corresponding deduction, our camp near
the top of the slide was only about forty-six hundred and thirty feet above the
sea. As we were very
tired, we decided to camp here for the night. The sun shone brightly all the
afternoon; but at no time was it uncomfortably warm, and, by five o’clock, had
grown so chilly, that we were glad to “try races” to keep from shivering. This
was the 8th of August, it must be borne in mind. On the 9th of September we
saw, from Lake Chesuncook, these same peaks white with snow. There was nothing
of incident in our night spent on this hoary, lichen-clad ledge: yet I recall
it more distinctly than any other of our sojourn in this wild region; it seemed
so high up, — so far above the world we had thus far dwelt in. We were,
therefore, not a little astonished, on waking in the morning, to find our
selves enveloped in what appeared to be a thick fog. The blankets which we had
snuggled around us were dampened as by a dense mist. It soon passed off,
however, seeming to drift away over the great valley to the southward. I think
it was a cloud. When the sun came up, the whole plateau glittered as if
drenched with dew. The mist passed in time to allow us to see the sun rise. The
point on the horizon above which the sun’s disk first made its appearance could
hardly have been less than seventy-five miles distant. We were surprised to see
how far off this caused the sun to seem at its rising, when viewed beyond so
great an extent of country. Building a fire —
enough to cook a breakfast — out of damp cowberry-bushes was decidedly a work
of time, and patience to boot. I regret to record that Cluey did not retain the
latter virtue (vartew as he would
have said) in excess on this occasion. Wade remarked, that, if Cluey had been a
Catholic, his priest would have had a big job on hand after this cowberry-fire.
It was nine o’clock
before we were ready to start on. An hour and a half brought us to the summit
of the main peak. The prospect from the highest rocks at this point was
grander, I suppose, in that it was loftier, than from any other. Still, to my
mind, it lacked the beauty and clearness of the view from the brink of the
slide. Taken together, the prospect from Katahdin is superior to that from
Mount Washington, both in beauty and general impressiveness. There are no
neighboring mountains of any thing like equal size. The landscape is
consequently less roughened and wild than that to be seen from the Tip-top
House. A view so grand and sombre as this can hardly fail to attract tourists
as soon as a road to the mountain shall be built. I wonder that some
enterprising Yankee with plenty of money has not guessed that a hotel on the West Branch, with a road leading
up thither, would prove a “paying investment.” Seen from the top
of the main peak, the mountain-ridge seems to form the arc of a circle, with
its concave side fronting to the south-east nearly. The west and north-west
sides are not nearly so steep. Descending from the
highest point, we made our way laboriously along the ridge toward the
north-east. For a considerable distance this ridge was very narrow, and
difficult to follow. At one place we were glad to get on our hands and knees,
and creep very cautiously and humbly, lest a single misstep should send us
headlong over the precipices on either side. About half a mile beyond we came
to an almost vertical descent of seventy or eighty feet, which Cluey called the
“chimney.” We had to lower each other from rock to rock, and use the greatest
caution lest our provision-buckets should be upset or let fall over the ledges.
Cluey told us that the vast hollow embraced by the southern concave side is
locally known as the “basin.” Some idea of the scenery from the ridge at this
point may be gained, per haps, when I state that the side of this basin falls
off three thousand feet over precipices far too steep to be descended in safety.
The sight is awe- inspiring. We instinctively shrank back from the brink of so
vast a gulf. I do not believe that it can be matched east of the Sierra
Nevadas. There is nothing about Mount Washington worthy to be compared with it
in point of abrupt depth and grandeur. Directly under the place where we were
standing at the foot of the “chimney,” there is a small pond in the basin,
called Chimney Pond. It seemed possible to throw a stone into this pond three
thousand feet below. We threw several; but, owing to the great depth, it was
impossible to tell where they struck. Far down under the shadow of the ridge we
espied a snow-drift, which, Cluey informed us, remained there all the year
round. It struck us as a rather curious fact, that while the granite along the “slides” and lower parts of the mountain is of a light-gray color, some times even approaching whiteness, that at the summit and along the top of the ridge should be red. Yet thus curiously has Nature crested the head of Katahdin. The savages believed that the rocks took this red and flinty hue beneath the feet of Pomoola, in his restless pacings to and fro along the mountain’s sullen brow. A little farther on, the descent is less precipitous; and, at a depth of four or five hundred feet, small black spruces appear along the shelf of the ledges. It was now after
two o’clock. We decided to descend far enough to procure fuel, and encamp for
the remainder of the day. But even here it required caution to make our way
down to where the evergreens began. Spruce, however, is
a great improvement on cowberry for culinary purposes: so, at least, Cluey
found it. He contrived to cook beef, make “pudding,” and boil coffee: so that,
by seven p.m., we dined in savage profusion. I should hardly dare to call to mind,
much less inform the public, how many gill dipperfuls of very strong, very
sweet coffee we drank apiece that evening. We apologized for each other by
continually calling to mind that it takes four
gills to make a pint. Our bed was on a
little shelf along the top of a ledge; and I recollect that we had some doubts
as to the safety of going to sleep, lest we should roll off, and bring up on
the rocks some hundred feet below. But, taking the precaution to put Wash in
the middle (he being “the man what gets up in his sleep”), we concluded to risk
it; and slept very soundly. Climbing over ledges all day will make anybody
sleep. Many persons — especially those who kick about on their spring
mattresses — are apt to think that they never could close their eyes or get a
wink of sleep if obliged to camp out and lie on a “shake-down” of boughs. All a
mistake. Get them up into this exhilarating mountain-air, and race them about
all day over the rough rocks and ridges, and they will sleep like tops, with
nothing save a blanket on a mossy ledge; nor will they feel the stiffer, nor
much the older, for it. *A full account of
this melancholy incident was published in the Bangor papers shortly after. * Eight hundred and
fifty feet. |