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CHAPTER XIII.

A continuation of their long and tedious voyage to Arica, with a description of the coasts and sailings !hereunto. Great hardship they endured for want of water and other provisions. They are descried at Arica, and dare not land there; the country being all in arms before them. They retire from thence, and go to Puerto de Hilo, close by Arica. Here they land, take the town with little or no loss on their side, refresh themselves with provisions; but in the end are cheated by the Spaniards, and forced shamefully to retreat from thence.


ON September 9th we continued still to make a S.W. by S. way, as we had done the day before. By a clear and exact observation, taken the same day, we found now lat. 8 12' S. All the twenty-four hours last past afforded us but little wind, so that we advanced but little on our voyage and were forced to tack about every four or five hours.

The next day, by another observation taken, we found then lat. 9 00' S. Now the weather was much warmer than before, and with this warmth we had small and misty rains that frequently fell. That evening a strong breeze came up at S.E. by E.

The night following likewise we had a very great dew that fell, and a fresh wind continued to blow. At this time we were all hard at work to make small sails of the Osnaburgs we had taken in the last prize, as being much more convenient for their lightness. The next morning being Saturday, September 11th, we lay by to mend our rigging. These last twenty-four hours we had made a S. by W. way. And now we had an observation that gave us lat. 10 9' S. I supposed this day that we were west from Cosmey, about the distance of eighty-nine leagues and a half.

September 12th. This day we reckoned a S.S.W. way, and that we had made thirty-four leagues and three-quarters, or thereabouts. Also that all our westing from Paita was eighty-four leagues, We supposed ourselves now to be in lat. 11 40' S. But the weather being hazy no observation could be made.

September 13th. Yesterday in the afternoon we had a great eclipse of the sun, which lasted from one o'clock till three after dinner. From this eclipse I then took the true judgment of our longitude from the Canary Islands, and found myself to be 285 35', in lat. 11 45' S. The wind was now so fresh that we took in our top-sails, making a great way under our courses and sprit-sail.

September 14th we had a cloudy morning, which continued so all the first part thereof. About eight it cleared up, and then we set our fore-topsail and, about noon, our main-topsail likewise. This was observable, that all this great wind precedent did not make anything of a great sea. We reckoned this day that we had run by a S.W. by W. way, twenty-six leagues and two-thirds.

The next day, in like manner, we had close weather, such as the former morning. Our reckoning was twenty-four leagues and two-thirds, by a S.W. by W. way. But, by observation made, I found myself to be 23 S. of my reckoning, as being in the lat. of 15 17' S.

On the 16th we had but small and variable winds. For the twenty-four hours last past we reckoned twenty-four leagues and two-thirds, by a S.W. by S. way. By observation we had lat. 16 41'. That evening we had a gale at E.S.E. which forced us to hand our top-sails.

The 17th likewise, we had many gusts of wind at several times, forcing us to hand our top-sails often. But in the forenoon we set them with a fresh gale at E.S.E. My reckoning this day was thirty-one leagues, by a S.S.W. way. All day long we stood by our top-sails.

On the 18th we made a S. by W. way. We reckoned ourselves to be in lat. 19 33' S. The weather was hazy, and the wind began to die this day by degrees.

The next day, being the 19th, we had very small wind. I reckoned thirteen leagues and a half, by a S.W. by S. way, and our whole westing from Paita to be 164 leagues in lat. 20 06' S. All the afternoon we had a calm, with drizzling rain.

Monday, September 20th. Last night we saw the clouds, which are so famous among the mariners Magellan of these southern seas. The least of these clouds was about the bigness of a man's hat. After this sight the morning was very clear. We had run at noon at E.S.E. thirteen leagues and a half, and, by an observation then made, we found lat. 20 15' S. This day the wind began to freshen at W. by S. Yet, notwithstanding, we had a very smooth sea.

But on the next morning, the wind came about to S.W. and yet slackened by degrees. At four this morning it came to S. by E., and at ten the same day, to S.E by S. We had this day a clear observation, and by it lat. 20 25' S. We stood now E. by N. with the wind at S.E.

September 22nd. This morning the wind was at E.S.E. By a clear observation we found lat. 19 30' S. Likewise on a N.E. by E. way, . . . and two leagues and two-thirds.

September 23rd. We had a fresh wind and a high sea. This morning early the wind was at E. and about ten at E.N.E. From a clear observation we found our latitude to be 20 35' S. The way we made was S. by W. That morning we happened to split our sprit-sail.

Next morning the wind was variable and inconstant, and the weather but hazy. We reckoned a S. by E. way; this day we bent a new main-topsail, the old one serving for a fore-topsail. In the afternoon we had but little wind, whereupon we lowered our top-sails, having. in like manner, a very smooth sea.

The following day, likewise, brought us calm and warm weather, which occasioned us to set up our shrouds both fore and aft. An observation taken this day afforded us lat. 21 57'. That evening we bent a sprit-sail.

On September 26th an observation gave us lat. 22 05' S. At noon we had a breeze at N.N.E., our course being E.S.E. In the afternoon we set up a larboard top-sail studding-sail. In the evening the wind came about at N. pretty fresh.

The next day we had a smooth sea, and took in four studding-sails. For yesterday in the afternoon we had put out, besides that above mentioned, another studding-sail, and two main studding-sails more. This day we had by observation 22 45' S., having made by an E.S.E. way, thirty-five leagues and a half. Our whole meridian Difference sixty-eight leagues and a half.

September 28th. All the forenoon we had very little wind, and yet withal a great southern sea. By observation we had lat. 22 40' S.

September 29th. All the night past we had much wind, with three or four fierce showers of rain. This was the first that we could call rain, ever since we left Cape Francisco above-mentioned, This day our allowance was shortened, and reduced to three pints and a half of water, and one cake of boiled bread to each man for a day. An observation this day gave us lat. 21 59' S. by a N.E. by E. way.

On September 30th we had a cloudy day, and the wind very variable, the morning being fresh. Our way was N.E. half N. wherein we made eighteen leagues.

October 1st. All the night past and this day we had a cloudy sky, and not much wind. We made a N.E. by E. way, and by it seventeen leagues and two miles. This day we began at two pints and a half of water for a day.

The 2nd, we made a E.N.E. way, and by it twenty-six leagues, more or less. Our observation this day gave us lat. 20 29' S. I reckoned now that we were ten leagues and a half to E. of our meridian, the port of Paita, so that henceforward our departure was eastward. The wind was this day at S.E. by S.

On the 3rd we had both a cloudy morning, a high sea, and drizzling weather. An observation which we had this clay, gave us lat. 19 45' S. In the afternoon the wind blew so fresh that we were forced to hand our top-sails and sprit-sail.

The 4th, likewise, we had a high sea and a cold wind. At break of day we set our top-sails. An observation made afforded' us lat. 19 8' S. Here we supposed ourselves fifty-nine leagues D.M.

The 5th, we had still a great sea, and sharp and cold winds, forcing us to our low sails. By a N.E. by E. way, we reckoned this day twenty-six leagues and a half.

But on the 6th we had great gusts of wind. Insomuch, that this morning our ring-bolts gave way, which held our main-stay, and had like to have brought our main-mast by the board. Hereupon we ran three or four glasses west before the wind. By an observation we found lat. 19 4' S.

On October 7th the wind had somewhat fallen. We had both a cloudy day and variable winds.

The 8th of the said month we had again a smooth sea, and small whiffling winds. This morning we saw a huge shoal of fish, two or three water-snakes, and several seals.

On the next day we had in like manner a very smooth sea, and withal a cloudy day. Our course was E.

October 10th. We had likewise a cloudy day, with small and variable winds, and what is consequent to these, a smooth sea. Our way was S. by E. This day we spied floating upon the sea several tufts of sea-grass, which gave us good hopes that we were not far from shore. In the afternoon we had a N.E. by E. wind that sprang up; the night was very cold and cloudy.

On the 11th we had a fresh wind at S.E. and E.S.E. together with a cloudy day, such as we had experienced for several days before. We reckoned this day thirty-two leagues by a N.E. by E. way. Here our pilot told us that the sky is always hazy near the shore upon these coasts where we now were.

On October 12th we had a clear day, and N.E. way.

The 13th we had but little wind. This day we saw a whale, which we took for an infallible token that we were not far distant from land, which now we hoped to see in a few days. We made an E.S.E. way, and by it we reckoned nineteen leagues. All the evening was very calm.

Thursday, October 14th, we had both a calm and close day until the afternoon. Then the weather became very hot and clear. This day we saw several land-fowls, being but small birds, concerning which our pilot said, that they use to appear about one or two days' sail from the land. Our reckoning was eleven leagues by an E.S.E. way. In the evening of this day we thought that we had seen land, but it proved to be nothing else than a fog bank.

October 15th. Both the night past and this day, was very clear. We made an observation this day, which gave us lat. 18 00' S.

The 16th. Last night and this day were contrary to the former, both cloudy. Our way was N.E. by E. whereof we reckoned thirteen leagues.

Sunday, October 17th, the wind blew very fresh, our course being E.N.E. About five that morning we saw land, but the weather was so hazy, that at first we could scarce perceive whether it was land or not. It was distant from us about eight leagues, and appeared as a high and round hill, being in form like a sugar-loaf. We saw land afterwards all along to the S.E. by E. from it. In the evening, we being then within five leagues of the shore, the land appeared very high and steep.

October 18th. All the night last past we stood off to sea with a fresh wind. This morning we could just see land at N.N.E. We reckoned a S.E. by E. way, and by observation we found lat. 17 17' S.

Tuesday, October 19th. We had very cloudy weather, finding what our pilot had told us to be very true concerning the haziness of this shore. We saw all along as we went very high land, covered with clouds; insomuch that we could not see its top.

On Wednesday, the next day, we had likewise cloudy weather, and for the most part calm. The same weather being very cloudy, as before, continued in like manner on Thursday.

Friday, October 22nd. This morning we saw the land plain before us. Our pilot being asked what land that was, answered, it was the Point of Hilo. At N.N.E. and about six or seven leagues distance it appeared thus to us:



There is every morning and evening a brightness over the point, which lasted for two or three hours, being caused by the reflection of the sun on the barren land, as it is supposed. This day we had but little wind, and the huge want of water we were now under, occasioned much disturbance among our men. As for my part, I must acknowledge I could not sleep all night long through the greatness of my drought. We could willingly have landed here to seek for water, but the fear of being discovered and making ourselves known, hindered us from so doing. Thus we unanimously resolved to endure our thirst for a little longer. Hereabouts is a small current that runs under the shore. This morning we had but little wind at S., our course being E.S.E. The point at the distance of five leagues N.E. looks on the following side thus:



Our wind continued to blow not above six hours each day. We reckoned the difference of our meridian to be this day, one hundred and eighty leagues. Very great was our affliction now for want of water, we having but half a pint a day to our allowance.

October 23rd. This day we were forced to spare one measure of water, thereby to make it hold out the longer, so scarce it became with us. At three this afternoon the point looked thus:



Here the point looks like an island, and Mora de Sama to the southward thereof, gives this appearance:



At about nine o'clock at night we had a land wind, and with it we stood S.E. by S., but all the night after we had but little wind.

October 24th. All the night past we had very cloudy and dark weather, with mizzling rain. The morning being come it cleared up, but all the land appeared covered with clouds. Yet, notwithstanding, in the afternoon it gave us again this appearance:



Under the hill of Mora de Sama are eighteen or n:neteen white cliffs which appear in the form thus described. This day we resolved that one hundred and twelve men should go ashore, and, at about eight this evt.ning, we sent our launch and four canoes, with four score men, to take three or four fishermen at a certain river, close by Mora de Sama, called El Rio de Juan Diaz, with intent to gain what intelligence we could as to how affairs stood at present on the coast and country thereabouts.

Monday, October 25th. Last night being about the distance of one league and a half from shore, we sounded, and found forty-five fathom water, with a hard ground at the bottom. This morning our people and canoes, that were sent to take the fishermen, returned, not being able to find either their houses or the river. They reported withal, they had had a very fresh wind all the night long under shore, whereas we had not one breath of wind all night on board.

Tuesday, October 26th. Last night being the night before this day, about six o'clock, we departed from the ship to go to take Arica, resolving to land about the distance of a league to windward of the town. We were about six leagues distant from the town when we left our ship, whereby we were forced to row all night, that we might reach the place of our landing before day. Towards morning the canoes left the launch, which they had had all night in tow, and wherein I was, and made all the speed they possibly could for the shore, with design to land before the launch could arrive. But being come nigh the place where we designed to land, they found, to our great sorrow and vexation, that we were descried, and. that all along the shore, and through the country they had certain news of our arrival. Yet, notwithstanding our discovery, we would have landed, if we could by any means have found a place to do it in. But the sea ran so high, and with such a force against the rocks, that our boats must needs have each been staved into one thousand pieces, and we in great danger of wetting our arms, if we should adventure to go on shore. The bay all round, and likewise the tops of the hills, was possessed by several parties of horse which seemed to be gathered there by a general alarm through the whole country, and they waited only for our landing, with design to make a strong opposition against us. They fired a gun at us, but we made them no answer, but rather returned to our ship, giving over this enterprise until a fairer opportunity. The hill of Arica is very white, being occasioned by the dung of multitudes of fowls that nest themselves in the hollow thereof. To leeward of the said hill lies a small island, at the distance of a mile, more or less, from the shore. About half a league from that island we could perceive six ships to ride at anchor, four of which had their yards taken down from their masts, but the other two seemed to be ready to sail. We asked our pilot concerning these ships, and he told us that one of them was mounted with six guns, and the other with only four. Being disappointed of our expectations at Arica, we now resolved to bear away thence to the village of Hilo, there to take in water and other provisions, as also to learn what intelligence we could obtain. All that night we lay under a calm.

On October 27th, in the morning, we found ourselves to be about a league to windward of Mora de Sama. Yet, notwithstanding, the weather was quite calm, and we only drove with the current to leeward. The land between Hilo and Mora de Sama forms two several bays, and the coast runs along N.W. and S.E. as may appear by the following demonstration. Over the land we could see from our ship, as we drifted, the coming or rising of a very high land, at a great distance far up in the country.

October 28th. The night before this day we sent away our four canoes with fifty men in them, to seize and plunder the town of Hilo. All that day was very calm, as the day before.

The next morning, about break of day, a fair breeze sprang up, with which we lay right in with the port. About one in the afternoon we anchored, and the port lies thus, as is here described:



We cast anchor at the distance of two miles from the village, and then we perceived two flags, which our men had put out, having taken the town, and set up our English colours. The Spaniards were retreated to the hills, and there had done the same. Being come to an anchor, our Commander, Captain Sharp, sent a canoe on board of us, and ordered that all the men our ship could spare, should come ashore. Withal they told us, that those of our party that landed the morning before, were met by some horsemen on the shore, who only exchanged some few vollies of shot with our men, but were soon put to flight. That hereupon our forces had marched directly to the town, where the Spaniards expecting we should have landed at first, had made a breastwork, thirty paces long, of clay and banks of sand. Here, in a small skirmish, we happened to kill an Indian, who told us before he died, that they had received news of our coming nine days ago, from Lima, and but one day before from Arica. Having taken the town, we found therein great quantity of pitch, tar, oil, wine and flour, with several other sorts of provisions. We endeavoured to keep as good a watch as the Spaniards did on the hills, fearing lest they should suddenly make an attempt to destroy us.

On the next day, October 30th, we chose out threescore men of them why were the fittest to march, from among the rest, and ordered them to go up and search the valley adjoining and belonging to the town. We found the said valley to be very pleasant, being all over set with fig, olive, orange, lemon, and lime-trees, with many other fruits agreeable to the palate. About four miles up, within the valley, we came to a great sugar-work, or Ingenio d' azucar, as it is called by the Spaniards, where we found great store of sugar, oil, and molasses, but most of the sugar the owners had hidden from us in the cane itself. As we marched up the valley, the Spaniards marched along the hills, and observed our motion. From the tops of the hills they often tumbled down great stones upon us, but with great care we endeavoured to escape those dangers, and the report of our gun would suddenly cause them all to hide their heads. From this house, I mean the sugar-work above-mentioned, Mr. Cox, myself, and one Cannis, a Dutchman (who was then our interpreter), went to the Spaniards with a flag of truce. They met us very civilly, and promised- to give us fourscore beeves as ransom of the sugar-work, upon condition that it should not be spoilt nor demolished. We agreed with them, that they should be delivered to us at the port, next day at noon. Hereupon Captain Sharp, in the evening, sent down to the port twenty men, with strict orders that our forces there should offer no violence to those that brought down the beeves.

Sunday, October 31st. This day being employed in casting up some accounts belonging to our navigation, I reckoned that Hilo was to the eastward of Paita, one hundred and eighty seven leagues. This morning the captain of the Spaniards came to our commander, Captain Sharp, with a flag of truce, and told him that sixteen beeves were already sent down to the port, and that the rest should certainly be there the next morning. Hereupon we were ordered to prepare ourselves to retreat, and march back to the port, and there embark ourselves on board our ship. My advice was to the contrary, that we should rather leave twenty men behind to keep the house of the sugar-work, and that others should possess themselves of the hills, thereby to clear them of the Spaniards and their look-out. But my counsel not being regarded, each man took away what burden of sugar he pleased, and thus we returned to our vessel. Being come there, we found no beeves had been brought down at all, which occasioned us much to suspect some double dealing would in the latter end be found in this case.

The next morning, November 1st, our captain went to the top of the hills afore-mentioned, and spoke with the Spaniards themselves, concerning the performance of their agreement. The Spaniards made answer that the cattle would certainly come down this night, but in case they did not, that the master or owner of the sugar-work had now returned from Potosi, and we might go up and treat with him, and make, if we pleased, a new bargain for the preservation of his house and goods, it being his interest, more than theirs, to save it from being demolished. With this answer our men returned to us, and we decided to wait until the next day for the delivery of the beeves.

On the following day about eight in the morning, there came in to us a flag of truce from the enemy, telling us, that the winds were so high, that they could not drive the cattle, otherwise they had been delivered before now. But withal, that by noon we should in no manner fail to have them brought to us. Noon being come, and no cattle appearing, we, now having filled our water, and finished other concerns, resolved to be revenged on the enemy, and do them what mischief we could, at least, by setting fire to the sugar-work. Hereupon, threescore men of us marched up the valley, and burnt both the house, the canes, and the mill belonging to the ingenio. We broke likewise the coppers, coggs, and multitudes of great jars of oil that we found in the house. This being done, we brought away more sugar, and returned to the port over the hills or mountains; the which we found to be very pleasant, smooth, and level after once we had ascended them. It fell out very fortunately to us that we returned back this way, for otherwise our men at the seaside had inevitably been cut off and torn in pieces by the enemy, they being at that time dispersed and straggling up and down in parties of two and three. For from the hills we spied coming from the northward of the bay, above three hundred horsemen, all riding at full speed towards our men, who had not as yet descried them, and little thought of any such danger from the enemy so nigh at hand. Being alarmed with this sight, we threw down what sugar we had, and ran incontinently to meet them, thereby to give our other men time to rally, and put themselves into a posture of defence. We being in good rank and order, fairly proffered them battle upon the bay, but as we advanced to meet them, they retired and rode towards the mountains to surround us, and take the rocks from us if they possibly could. Hereupon, perceiving their intentions, we returned back and possessed ourselves of the said rocks, and also of the lower town, as the Spaniards themselves did of the upper town (at the distance of half a mile from the lower), the hills and the woods adjoining thereunto. The horsemen being now in possession of these quarters, we could perceive, as far as we could see,. more and more men resort to them, so that their forces increased hourly to considerable numbers. We fired one at another as long as we could reach, and the day would permit. But in the meanwhile we observed, that several of them rode to the watch-hill, and looked out often to the sea-board. This gave us occasion to fear, that they had more strength and forces coming that way, which they expected every minute. Hereupon, lest we should speed worse than we had done before, we resolved to embark silently in the dark of the night, and go off from the coast where we had been so early descried, and the enemy was so much prepared against us. We carried off a great chest of sugar, whereof we shared seven pound weight and a half each man; thirty jars of oil, and great plenty of all sorts of garden herbs, roots, and most excellent fruit.





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